Part 1: Tehran

 

“A part of me will be buried in the land of Khorasan and any believer who visits him, Allah will make Paradise obligatory for him, and will forbid the Fire from touching his body,” said the Prophet of Islam (S) alluding to his descendent Imam Reza (AS).

 

The privilege of spending almost three weeks in the Islamic Republic of Iran was granted to my wife and me, allowing us to travel around this vast country in a great loop from Tehran to Mashhad, Shiraz, Isfahan and Qom, then back to Tehran. Truly a trip of a lifetime, we would like to share some of the fascinating highlights of our wonderful Iranian adventure, which included pilgrimages to the shrines of Hazrat Abdul Azim (AS), Imam Reza (AS), Shah Cheragh (AS), Hazrat Fatima al-Masumeh (AS) and Imam Khomeini.

 

During the 747’s graceful approach into the Imam Khomeini Airport, my wife and I noted the peaceful calmness of the serene countryside south of Tehran as well as the patterns made by the street lights along the quiet roadways at this very early morning hour. Having survived a long flight from Denver, Colorado to Tehran, Iran via Frankfort, Germany that arrived at 1:30 a.m., we were both tired but very excited finally to be at our destination in the Islamic Republic. We met our tour guide, Miss Fam Shah-Hosseini, and our driver for the first two days, Mr. Masud Artuii, who whisked us on our way from Imam Khomeini Airport to the Enghelab Hotel in downtown Tehran.

 

As I gazed out the window of Mr. Masud’s car at sights I had never seen before, marveling at the colorfully illuminated highway overpasses and eye-catching billboards with their messages gracefully inscribed in nastaliq Persian script, I recalled a phrase from the Colorado USA State song written by the late John Denver “He was born in the summer of his twenty seventh year coming home to a place he’d never been before.” While the summer of my 27th year passed in 1974, nevertheless, a strange feeling engulfed me that I was truly coming home, even though I had never in my life been to Iran before.

 

Tehran

 

We arrived at the Enghelab Hotel in the early morning hours of Tuesday, May 1, just in time to hear the azan (call to prayer). After salaat, we tried to catch a few hours of sleep before starting our first day of sightseeing in Iran. In the morning, we met Miss Fam in the lobby and set out in Mr. Masud’s car, eager to see our first historical site in Tehran, the Golestan Palace.

 

My first impression of the Golestan Palace, which was typical of many such sites, was being awestruck by the exquisite beauty of the surrounding gardens. Everywhere we went in Iran, there were lush, verdant gardens full of colorful foliage, fountains, pools and tree-lined paths and the Golestan Palace was no exception. The complex located at Panzdah Khordad Square includes several historical buildings. We went inside Shams ol-Emareh, the tallest structure in the Golestan complex, and Talar-e Salaam, the Reception Hall with its magnificent mirror work where royal guests and dignitaries that had come for an audience with the Qajar shahs were received,  astounded by the elegantly ornate halls that once hosted these monarchical visitors. The wax figures on display seemed so life-like, I was almost convinced that I saw one of them blink his eyes.

 

After a delicious lunch of Kabob-e Kubideh (ground meat charbroiled on broad-bladed skewers served with rice and tomatoes) at the Khayyam Traditional Restaurant, it was off to visit our friends and coworkers at the Tehran Times International Newspaper with whom I have worked now for some four years. I cannot describe how emotionally intense the experience was finally to meet all these colleagues, which felt more like a joyous, tear-filled family reunion of long-lost relatives than a first-time meeting of professional associates. Thank you all at the Tehran Times for such a warm, heart-felt reception; we will never forget it. You taught us early on in our trip about the legendary warmth, kindness and hospitality of the Iranian people. Such genuine loving warmth was hard for us to accept having spent all of our lives in the emotionally stifling climate of America.

 

On Wednesday, we ate breakfast in the hotel then paid a visit to the National Museum of Iran to see some of the rare historical artifacts on display there including finds from Persepolis and the Salt Man from Zanjan. Next was a stop at the Glass and Ceramics Museum to see a splendid collection of fine glassware and ceramics housed in a Qajar-era building that was formerly a private residence and later the Egyptian Embassy. 

 

After a lunch of Khoresht-e Qaimeh (traditional yellow split-pea, meat and tomato stew) at the International Ferdowsi Grand Hotel and listening to some traditional Iranian music, we went to pay a visit to the Tehran International Book Fair. I had edited articles about the fair, but never dreamed I would actually live to see it in person. To see booth after publisher’s booth full of books of every kind was a delight in itself, but to see an entire hall dedicated to Islamic books was beyond exhilarating, especially for someone coming from the spiritual depravity of the U.S.

 

Throughout our trip upon entering a new city or town, we were first greeted by large sculptures representing the particular fruit or specialty item produced there, such as grapes, pomegranates, pistachios or saffron crocuses. Often there were huge sculptures of birds, geese or pelicans, or giant fountains in the shape of pitchers pouring out cool water. Iranian flags flew proudly over every maydan (square) while large poster-sized photos of the town’s courageous martyrs who had perished in defense of their country and Islam lined the streets and hung from light poles. The pictures of these valiant young soldiers displayed by their hometowns as an enduring tribute had a profound impact upon us.

 

Returning to the hotel that evening, we prepared for our trip east across the vast territory of Iran between Tehran and Mashhad, stopping enroute for an overnight stay at Bastam. We both felt somewhat sad to leave Tehran so soon after being there only two days, but anxiously looked forward to the next part of our Iranian adventure from Rey to Mashhad.